Pyrénées

We had a great petit déjeuner at 7:00 a.m. including cereal and milk, fruit, juice, coffee and not just bread but croissants and the chocolate ones too. We were off by 7:38 a.m. on what would be a long day. The trail ran south from Etsaut on the old road for about three kilometers gradually rising and turning into a trail above a castle or fort. When it turned left, it rose on a rock ledge cut out of the side of a cliff (which we were told was used in earlier times to lower large trees used for masts). The ledge was 8 to 15 feet wide and hung over a gorge with a precipitous drop of 100 feet or more. We rose in a forested canyon for a long way - about another three kilometers. It was a climb but not as steep as the previous day. A helicopter appeared, flying up the canyon and we figured it was lifting building materials to a house we passed on the trail. When we passed the Grange de Perry, the trail went into the woods for some time and there was a turn off for the Col d'Arras which we did not take.

After passing the helicopter house, the trail came out of the woods for a stretch and then reentered the woods briefly and then emerged where we were passed by three women and three burros each carrying two half cylinders on each side. The middle burro ran me off the trail as I tried to take pictures and then headed for Bon, but they passed on. After more woods the trail opened out above the trees and there was a long valley. We were on the left of the river with high grassy hills above us and a small bowl at the end with the col we would eventually cross. The trail rose through the valley and passed a shepherd's hut at a point where the National Park began.

We soon had to cross a wide roaring stream and we climbed above it. I helped Bon across by pulling her with a stick and we only got a wet foot or two. We were on the left side of the stream and passed many purple iris, pink lilies we had seen the previous day and many other flowers. It continued to rise through the valley and finally crossed the stream on a little wooden bridge. We passed a herd of pale beige cows that were snoozing and walked through muddy pasture to the trail again.

As we continued to mount the hills in front were vivid green with waterfalls descending in several places. This turned into a bright green bowl where we met two unusual mostly black cows. Here the trail switched back and we could see people below us who we could not recognize. We saw two groups of amazingly blue small flowers – another type of Gentian. Then we arrived at a sign post and a lower col from which we could see the mountains to the west. We picked a nice perch in some red laurel to have a picnic. First we were passed by a couple with a large white dog and then Tom and Jane arrived and joined us. They were followed by George and Alan who continued to the higher col. The four of us ate lunch and took pictures of each other set off by the views. Then we mounted to the col about five minutes above us and were greeted by the Pic du Midi d'Ossau - a spectacular view with lakes below and mountains in all directions. We dropped our packs and enjoyed the view for about 20 minutes. Then Tom and Jane ran down the hill while Bon and I followed at a leisurely pace leaving Alan and George to admire the view.

It was quite cold now - you could occasionally see your breath and there was some snow around. We had put on warmer wear and descended to the Lac Gentau which had the Refuge d'Ayous above it and a plain of green grass next the lake where horses were grazing. All this was set off by the majestic double peak of Midi as a backdrop!

We descended to the lake and the trail led down to a lower lake with a rushing waterfall on our right. Here we met a number of people who were day hiking.

We descended further admiring the Pic d’Ossau until we came to woods near an old building with people camping nearby. We went down through woods to a spot by some water where we found Tom and Jane again. We walked behind them on a cement road with occasional white flagstones in it. As we came to Lac de Blous-Artigues, it began to sputter rain. Tom and Jane unpacked rain gear as a large flock of sheep fully occupied the road for about 50 yards. I followed suit. We passed the lake and lots of people and a parking lot where Bon fixed a blister on her toe. Then we hiked down the road to a camping area to investigate a store which closed as we arrived.

It continued to rain a little as we descended the road for about three kilometers (behind Tom and Jane) into the town of Gabas. We veered off the road on GR 10 into town while they continued to the gîte on the road. We passed George at a nice looking hotel and then walked to the end of the town where our Hotel Vignau was - the farthest from the trail head tomorrow! It was a drab room but the bed and the bathroom were fine and the host offered to leave us petit déjuner in our room which would get us an early start for the 9 hour trail tomorrow. We arrived about 6:10 p.m.

After showers, we walked up the street to find a restaurant as I thought the hotel restaurant was a little dismal. We passed several before arriving at the jolie looking one at which we had seen George earlier. We talked to a pleasant young man behind the bar who arranged that we could have the steak menu that they normally served at lunch. Then we sat down to have a beer and pretzels with George and Alan.

After a beer, the four of us went to a pleasant dining room with large windows looking out over greenery and up the hill beyond. We shared a bottle of excellent table red wine and had a delectable dinner. Roquefort salad, rare roast beef and pan fried potatoes (lots of gravy) wonderful cheese (including one called something like Robjean which we loved) and ice cream with fruit for dessert. It was a great dinner with pleasant company and Tom joined us later to take on George in foosball.

We strolled back to our hotel room which was right along the main drag and tried to read but were both instantly asleep. The night was an incredible experience. Beginning about 1:00 p.m. and for what seemed every half hour thereafter, a flock of sheep or cattle would be driven up the road right by our room with their bells going full tilt. We put in ear plugs but still could hear them. It didn't make much difference for either of us as we were so tired. We later learned that this was the transhumance migration of livestock to the high pastures. The National Park opened on this day and the herds and flocks were brought up at night so as not to block the roads.