Cévennes

We awoke to a cloudless day with wet and steaming fields. Breakfast included fresh milk from cow that Madame had milked. She was striking with a straight nose and a weathered face with lines that came from smiling; a strong woman who was kind with the children and yet able to hold her own with the bikers. After breakfast we packed up with the bikers and departed. Bon notice the Messieur of the place in the barn with his caged rabbits (lapins are raised for food).

Our walk began on a main road for a kilometer or so. The trail left the road to the right through a pine forest with grassy knolls. Soon we had a view to the east with a vista of the mountains beyond. After descending and crossing our second style, we walked along a road overshadowed by forest above. This went straight for a while and then bore to the right and revealed a view of Barre-des-Cévennes perched below the can noire or flat rocky ridge. (This ridge protected the town from the north wind and gave it plentiful water which seeped through the rock to springs below).

Sebastien’s house was on the south side of the main street and upstairs there was a delightful two story flat with kitchen, shower and living room on the second story and two bedrooms with toilette on the third. It was sparsely furnished but comfortable though quite cool on the second floor.

The town was built vertically along a main street below the barre. Bon and I first returned to a restaurant on the main street we passed at the west end of town adjacent to the war memorial. After after trying to reserve for dinner we found it was only open for lunch. So we decided to have prix fixe lunch and a rosé wine. This consisted of six deviled eggs and tuna, ham sausage and bread, followed by a pork main dish with pommes frite, followed by cheese and then ice cream. Woops, I forgot the paté. Amazing and the best fries I’ve ever eaten!

I walked around the town as Bon napped. Soon she joined me and we decided to climb the barre. It was a lovely walk in the afternoon sunshine with clouds and thunder in the distance. We went to the west of town, and up onto the barre which overlooked the entire countryside. The rocks, flowers and birdsong, including the cuckoo, were all spectacular. We climbed to the top of the flat topped rocks which had been eroded below and saw mountains and other plateaus in all directions. After descending to the town and passing our luncheon restaurant, we returned to the flat to pick up our fleeces and head out to the creperie across the street for dinner.

After a pleasant and very French dinner, the stars accompanied us past the azure lighted fountain and home to the apartment. Another wonderful day.