Cévennes

We decided on a small trail towards Florac which would provide an alternate route to rejoin GR 43 - the trail we had taken out of l’Hospitalet. It led to the west of town and up a long hill into woods and farm areas. We passed les Combes, gray rocks that had unusual vertical formations that appeared eroded by water. We proceeded on through woods constantly hearing birds but never seeing one. The trail finally hit a road at Col du Rey with a view to the west of the Causse Méjean.

Here we turned left, again on GR 43 which followed a small paved road along a unforested stretch with surface limestone. The sun was hot and we followed a dirt road. At an old stone building the trail took an abrupt left downhill first through a grassy area, then rocky overhangs and a rocky trail with many switch backs. After a large sandstone cliff maybe 50 feet in height the trail broke out into a more civilized area though still rocky and smelling of the wild thyme which was in bloom. At a large mas the trail descended and turned grassy beside small terraced fields. Finally, we joined the road which wove along the east side of the Tarnon river gorge. It was hot but we decided not to stop in favor of having a late lunch in Florac. The trail passed a barn with Pennsylvania Dutch markings. Then it approached the clear river and passed over an arched stone bridge. The cliffs across gorge were immense with unusual vertical rock formations. We continued along the river passing swimmers and seeing fish in the rapids.

Florac was much bigger than other towns we had visited. There was a long developed stretch before the old village. After getting oriented, we took cover at a restaurant enjoying a beer under cover of a valence as the rain began. A couple of beers seemed to clear the weather situation, and after looking at a gîte we ended up at the Hotel des Gorges du Tarn, the French equivalent of the Holiday Inn, 200 meters down the road.

As we started out to dinner, we saw a little girl we'd seen playing soccer on the streets of Barre-des-Cévennes and we briefly greeted her and her family. We had a good meal outdoors, in the main square. However as we finished it began to get chilly - the damp chill of a river town. So after paying, we made a beeline to our hotel to get warm and read.