Alpes-Maritimes - September 15, 2000

We decided to go to the art museum of Menton which had a citrus garden outside. As we arrived before 10:00 a.m. when the museum opened, we walked out to the water where we could see Cap Martin. We passed a soccer field just as the boys probably about age 13 were told to do laps. It was interesting seeing them start out, some rushing for the front, others horsing around in the middle and a few already dragging at the rear. We walked around a little loop and back to the mus�e where the grounds were open. There was every conceivable type of citrus tree interspersed with busts of mostly famous Frenchmen, though Longfellow was included. Then into the museum which had been the mansion of the prince of the region with ornate decoration in each of the rooms, parquet floors, beautiful stairs, and hallways with mosaic floors. There were two little carriage boxes, elaborately painted with windows on the sides and velvet interiors that were used to carry a fashionable woman to a ball. They had places for two long two by fours on each side and were obviously to be carried by four men.

From the museum we decided to go to Monaco. A nice woman gave us directions to the gare which was down past the air base. We found it and walked up stairs to the track and discovered that tickets had to be purchased on the other side and the train was to leave in three minutes! I ran down, under the tracks and upstairs on the other side only to end up behind two Italian women who wanted to get rid of all their French coins. They tried several combinations to attempt to equal the price of their tickets before they were successful. I was pacing in the rear. I finally got our ticket (for two) and then ran back to the other side. The train, mercifully a little late, arrived soon thereafter. The elegant underground Monaco train station included a long marble hallway of 100 yards or so out to the bay where yachts of every size are berthed. After stopping for a drink on Princess Caroline Street, we climbed the long promenade which led up, up to the Roche arriving at the high plaza in front of the Monaco Palace, with a line of cannon protecting the eastern approach. We decided not to take the palace tour but to see a little museum with a large collection of Napoleon memorabilia including a knife that had been used in an assassination attempt and a detailed description of the breech birth of his son, le Roi de Rome. Afterwards, we visited the cathedral, a large Romanesque structure with tombs of all the Princes of Monaco and Princess Grace's tomb (Gracia Patricia).

We returned to Menton in a sunny double-decker train after which we decided to go for a swim in the Mediterranean. It had clouded over, but the water was a lot warmer than Maine ocean we're used to and very clear. I had also read that the Mediterranean was much saltier that the Atlantic because of evaporation and it did seem so. However, it was a lot more casual than in the U.S. as a couple down the beach changed out of their suits into their clothes. After a short swim we went back to the room to change for dinner. At an Italian restaurant which we had noticed was popular (and had the advantage of a very attractive young Italian waitress) we had a lovely meal with salads and tasty pizzas � the crusts were extremely good. We also ordered a full liter of the house red � slightly more than I expected � which we managed to polish off. We strolled and back to hotel to read E.B. White and then to bed.